Mljet the debrief

 

Ahh Mljet, what a surprise. I chose this holiday simply as I hadn't been to Croatia, I leave this holiday knowing that at some point I will come back to this island.

My holidays and city breaks are usually quite busy as I push myself to see everything and do everything that I have on my self written itinerary. Here I had one idea, which was to go to Dubrovnik for the day, this turned out to be very difficult as it would only be two hours in the city, so I shelved that plan very early on and concentrated on eating, drinking, sleeping and sunbathing. And I stuck to this plan. 

Also Dubrovnik old town is absolutely rammed with tourists from early morning to late evening, and every day the local news showed pictures of the crowds. I would not have enjoyed that one bit.

There are things to do, hiking in the national park, visiting the monastery and boats trips around the island, anything to do with a boat was not high on my agenda obviously.

I did watch TV, lots of American series  with subtitles in Croatian, and various others from around the world, Vera was on one day, but my all time favourite  was 'Berg Dokter' which I guess was Austrian or Swiss, I'm guessing this as it was in the Alps and all the women were wearing Dirndls. Couldn't understand a word of it, but I'm not going to the Alps any time soon!!!!!

The hotel, was a little dated but was exceptionally clean and I had my bed changed 3 times whilst I was there and had clean towels every day, even though I said  to leave them. They provided beach towels at the reception if you asked for them.

The food was very. very good, I expect to be needing an extension to my seat belt on the way back.

The art work in my hotel room was by the Croatian artist Armano Jericevic, and I loved that too. He qualified as  a dentist but gave it up to concentrate on art. I'm currently looking for a piece to have at home.

my room was a double as requested, but as I have found on previous holidays, because  I am one person in a room, I was given a very small room with no balcony. My gripe is that as a single traveller, I've paid a premium for that, I then get done over at the hotel. This nearly happened last year  in Tunisia until I had a showdown with the manager. This holiday, I arrived at the dead of night, terrified and just wanting to go to bed.. the room was adequate but a balcony would have been better.

I could see the sea, over the roof.

The restaurants in the village line the one road, which also runs parallel to the sea. No one is competing for trade as they all have something different to offer.

I often had coffee at 'restaurant Melody', but spent most of my lunchtimes at 'Adriatic' . The food was amazing. The prices can be a bit higher than expected but this is due to everything having to be brought in from the mainland.

I often find on holiday, that being on my own, makes people less likely to speak to me and if I speak to them  its usually recceives a strained reply. Here though people  have been very friendly and after having  travelling with Carol and Mick, we often caught up for a drink.

The island is ideal if you are looking to just relax, read a book, swim, walk eat and drink. I've been able to look at things that were troubling me and sort it all out in my head and on paper, I've come home ready to change and improve things. Sometimes, having no distractions, is just what you need to clear your mind.

Watching the sun go down every evening whist having a glass of gorgeous Croatian wine has been a highlight of every day.

I even found a little hidden seating area, which looked straight out to sea. It was at the hotel, but no one ever seemed to sit there except me.

The only downside to this holiday was the transfer. From airport to port, and I used two on the mainland side and two on the island side, travel is restricted to ferry timetables or the hotel pleasure cruiser , not a pleasure.

I think that I was there at the best time too, as it was gearing up for the major  season starting next week. One of the lovely locals told me to come again early May or late September. as they said, the best time.

Would I recommend it, oh yes, it really was wonderful and I loved the laid back routine that I fell into so easily, I loved the people who were warm and welcoming. I loved the hotel, with its canned lounge music and dated decor, but with a good vibe that helped you to relax without even realising.

Mljet, has been a great experience for me, and I really would love to go back.

Note to all travellers, if you chose to decant products into the small travel bottles, always add the little labels that are often provided in the packs.

I did not, and as I usually have serious hair troubles, thought this holiday was worse than normal. Only to find that a small bottle of body lotion I had decanted to take to Bratislava, I had mistaken for hair conditioner. Take it from me, it doesn't work.

another tick off my big birthday list.

my last day

 

I was up at 6am to go and say goodbye to Carol and Mick, the lovely couple who shred the boat ride coming out with me.

We had breakfast together and I waved them off as they set off back to Sheerness.

I had time to kill, and it was slightly overcast so I headed off again to the 'Adriatic' restaurant where I , had coffee and chocolate and raspberry torte. This is made by the wife of the restaurant owner and honestly it was amazing.

I headed back to the hotel and as I had to check out of my room, I was stuck in reception, and as this was where the wifi was, I decided to watch a spot of rubbish on Netflix. I got lost in Bridgerton, which wasted a couple of hours.

I was being picked up at half one to go to Sobra, on the other side of the island to catch the three o' clock ferry.

It was definitely a lot bigger than the one I came on, I checked out the life jackets and sat pretty close to the lifeboat. It was a smooth forty minute crossing, and there was my very own chauffeur waiting as I got off and I was sped off in a Merc, the hour or so drive to the airport.

Wowser, the roads are very high above the sea and its usually a sheer drop over the other side. the views were amazing though and it was wonderful to see this country speeding by, taking in the amount of islands and the beautiful  landscape.

I even got to see the old town, from very high up in the hills

I arrived at the airport and checked in, headed through and waited. The Leeds flight was late in and we were late taking off, but landed back in Leeds three hours later,  as the electrics had blown when we landed, we had to wait for them to plug in the aircraft before we could disembark. 

If nothing else, my holidays are never uneventful.

I picked up my car and drove home, getting in at the exact same time, twelve hours later than I had been picked up at my hotel.

I found this mosaic in the corner of the hotel reception, I think it sums up my journey to the island 😂

I'm home safe but tired.

The washing is on and I have been to do the shopping.

This time yesterday I was just chilling by the sea

today I'm just chilling on the sofa.

wowser it was a scorcher yesterday

 

I was up and at breakfast at 7am and then headed out for my morning constitutional. I glanced out over  the islands and realised that I couldn't see  the mainland in  distance. There was a shimmering haze This meant only one thing, heat!!! I raced ( well walked quickly) back to the hotel and getting straight onto the sun pavilion. I had decided that it was a full day of baking my bulk.

By lunchtime, I needed some respite from the now scorching sun, so headed down to 'Adriatic' for my last meal there. 

I was talking to the two waiters who have been so lovely over the past week . They have lived and worked on the island for two years having come for a season from Bosnia-Herzegovina and stayed.

As I was finishing my meal, I was joined by a group from one of the yachts, they are preparing for a wedding today, (the wedding party are in the hotel). I stayed for one more glass of wine with them and agreed to meet for a couple of drinks later. 

then back for another afternoon of sunning myself

The hotel has two sun decks and across the road is the sea terrace, this is a much sought after place and has access straight into the sea (no beaches). I've used all of the terraces and decks, and have found that the one right at the top, the sun pavilion, in full glare of the sun is my favourite.

I left at about 4.30pm, and got ready for dinner, which was again a resounding success. The food in the hotel just gets better. They serve a homemade consommé, which is just amazing and which I have every evening.

I then headed out to meet the yacht lot

well a couple of drinks turned into a few drinks and I was wending my way home, very late.......11pm, every thing was closing or had already closed, its not a party island.

I was watched on the way back by the groupers in the tank at Restaurant Pomena. They've been watching me every night, but after a clean out yesterday they were more visible.

And so my last day begins, I am off to wish 'bon voyage' to Carol and Mick, who are heading back on the early ferry. 

Lets see what I can cram in today.

I escaped from the village

 

Today I escaped from the village  .(pop 120) and went to another village Polace (pop 111), it does however have a bigger mini mart, its about four foot  bigger. I was in there for about fifteen minutes and in that time there was a torrential downpour. It continued all the way  back to Pomena

I did however, get to see the stunning lakes in the national park too and the monastry. I have wanted to go there but had to get a boat and at the moment the thought of getting onto another boat is not high on my agenda. 

The views from the paths above the lakes were stunning

I also saw a wild boar which scuttled out of the bushes and across the road, nasty looking thing.

Most of the wild life that I have spotted has included the Dalmation wall lizard which frequents the hallways of the hotel and scares the bejeeezus out of me. Also iridescent flying beetles, which are everywhere.

Back in Pomena, I decided to go and have a lie down for an hour or until it stopped raining, ahhhh Croation TV, showing James Martin with subtitles, good way to waste some time.

When I got back to my room, my bedding had been changed again, that's the second change since I arrived,  not something you don't get in every hotel.

I had a half hour nap and when I awoke, I could see the sun!!!, I was up and on my lounger in record time.

The wind was blowing, taking the edge off the suns rays,  today I just decided to sit it out. I got talking to a lovely couple from Bangor, we suddenly realised we were all really catching the sun a little too much,so headed under shade and shared the contraband we had stashed in out bags,  1L bottles of wine. it was a good afternoon.

By 4pm , I was  'done', well and truly cooked, so I headed in for a shower and a nap,  another one cant hurt. If I've done one thing well this holiday,it is sleep, I may wake up at around 5am, but I catch up during the day.

Dinner was amazing, there was pasta with black truffle sauce, I had second helpings it was that good.

I wandered up to the pavilion deck to watch the sunset, stunning

And decided to end the evening with a quick drink in the bar, ended up having a couple and sitting with Mick  who along side his wife Carol shared the crossing on Saturday evening.

What a lovely day.

Im getting used to this  doing nothing lark.

Happy Friday 

very hot and windy

 

I was up with the larks yesterday ( as per normal) and headed down for brekkie, I was too early, they hadn't opened, I glanced at my watch it was 6.45am. I must have looked like a starving orphan as the Maitre D signaled that I could go in.

I was in and out before anyone else showed up.

I wandered up the village, there is just one road and as such the houses, restaurant and bars are just a number 

The Hotel is no 1 Pomena.

Imagine being  1 London.

I had a coffee and a piece of cake at my favourite restaurant and then headed  back to the sundeck, the sun was scorchio, but the wind had got up again.

I had a dip in the sea and by the time I had dried off it was getting too windy and I didn't want to risk getting too much sun. Again there were some very burnt people at dinner.

I headed off up the hill and had a walk about a mile or so, there were some gorgeous views but also some lovely wild flowers. I didn't see a soul or car or bicycle. Absolute bliss.

I went for an afternoon nap................which lasted longer than it should have. Quick shower and dinner, which was again wonderful. The hotel may be stuck in the 80's interior design and wifi wise, but at least the food is up to scratch.

I've settled into a very boring routine this holiday, I do very little and do the same very little every day, not my usual racing about like a lunatic. very chilled out.

A walk up to 'Adriatic', my favourite restaurant has become part of my evening ritual. A glass of wine ( first of the day) and then home.

Last night I tried a Croatian white wine 'Grasevina' I may be drinking the rest of my holiday as most of the wine in the mini mart is sold in 1L bottes !!!

This wine was very good, dry and crisp with a fruity taste, at times peachy at others more apple. Still very good though.

I'm now about to hit the shower and start another day.

9

Day 3 in the big Mljet house

 

Yesterday dawned slightly over cast and during breakfast I was undecided what to do. I had thought to head into the national park but by 9am it was heading for scorchio so I quickly headed for the sun deck, hoping that the whaling vessels were on the other side of the island.

Wowsers, it got windy, very windy and by 1pm I decided to call it a day as I didn't want to be burnt to a crisp, and judging by some of the lobsters at dinner last night, some others should have done the same.

I decided to head off to the 'Melody ' Restaurant for lunch and some wine

I then wandered down to my favourite restaurant 'Adriatic' for more wine, I will just add here I had been to the local shop for  4litres of water this morning. I am drinking responsibly and keeping myself hydrated.

A couple of years ago I took a course on Homers Illiad and on the back of that I fought my way through  Homers Odyssey.  ( yep, girly swat mode), so imagine my surprise when I found out the Mljet is where Odysseus (Ulysses) is held for  7 years as Calypso's lover in a cave. (ok I know its Greek mythology but to me its real).

And, I mean, look at him!!! He was some guy that Odysseus.(OK its Sean Bean , the future Lord Lainey, he was pretty good as Odysseus in the film Troy.)

Anyhoo, back to the cave, you can go and visit it. 'Ohhh' thinks me, that will be a good morning out, and then they tell me that I have to go in a boat, a little motor boat, ermmm, no thanks, I'm still trying to get my head round going back on one. So sadly I have had to put this on hold.

I had my now, daily afternoon nap, (wine induced, I'm guessing), it has become a nice little habit.

After dinner ( the food in the hotel is exceptional) I had my evening constitutional, helping to digest my over indulgence. The views around the village are really stunning, as I headed back to the hotel the sun was setting. So very peaceful.

Back at my room it was 'champagne' hour, I found in the little mini mart a Croation sparkling wine. oh my days, it was exceptional. It was dry with a sharp green apple taste. The bubbles lasted and at €5 a bottle, incredible value. called Perla.

I highly recommend.

I know that I have barely moved from the dockside of Pomena but really, I don't want to, I've settled into a quiet and slow pace of life. 

And today, well its the official half way mark to my big birthday so that means 6 months until my next holiday (boooo). Best get back to soaking up sun, not getting harpooned and drinking more wine.

Happy Wednesday.

Sunshine

 

I was wide awake at 4am, I could see the faint streaks of light starting to stretch over the sky, should I get up and go for a walk?, I decided to stay in bed and found that I was listening for signs of life. The pace of life here on the island is very slow and relaxed, and the same can be said about mornings, nothing seems to really happen until about 9am.

I headed down for breakfast and found to my delight that French toast was again on the menu, simple things!. 

I'd made a list of things that I needed at the  local shop, which was supposed to open at 8am, but at 9am was just opening its doors.

Water, bananas and apples were on the shopping list, then I hit the sun deck.

I watched the yachts coming and going in between napping. 

I have found sleep coming very easily at any time of the day or night. I realise now how tired I have been.

Swimming is something that I have always loved to do especially sea swimming, but its more appealing here with the water so clear you don't need googles to see whats going on below. The water is full of sea urchins which are not great to stand on (an experience n Spain I never want to repeat), as well as shoals of fish, some tiny, some medium and some quite big. Ive also seen a lot of star fish.

The weather was very hot yesterday and I decided on a latish lunch which turned out a little more liquid than I had planned, but then I am on holiday.

I am enjoying the Croatian wine a lot and have decided to make it my holiday mission to try as much as possible. Always good to have a plan I have found!! the food too is very good, of which a spinach burger last night was a highlight.

I have to mention  the audacity and sheer opportunist behaviour of a bloody large seagull at dinner. There is a large outdoor terrace where a lot of people choose to eat, a couple had put their food on the table and then headed back into the restaurant. out of nowhere the said seagull flew in, landed on the table and took  slices of roast pork from the plate, we all sat watching in horror and amusement .The couple came back to find the waiting staff removing their plates, they had not seen the incident 

Due to lack of weird museums on the island , I have to find other things to fill my time.

Watching the sun come up and go down seems to be a thing here too, so I joined in with this.

I'm having another day of sunbathing today and then possibly tomorrow I am off  into the national park

And with that I am off to see if I can evade being harpooned.

Have a great day 

day one in Mljet

 

So a warmer welcome from this little Croatian Island. 

Let me just clear up yesterdays blog.

I arrived at the hotel at 1am, tired and extremely terrified. A 1.5 hour boat ride in the pitch dark on the type of boat like those that used to operate at The Lakes (not open sea).The ones with banquette seating around the outside and one long banquette in the middle. So 3 of us on this, the boat crashing through waves, no lights and a very strange quarter moon, that was pink and looked like a blood moon  (it wasn't), the boat rocking very dangerously from side to side and none of us wearing a life jacket!! The gentleman  of the couple with me, is ex Navy and he admitted yesterday that he was worried, his wife and I were really terrified.

This was not the usual Lainey holiday adventure, I've never actually thought that I was about to see my life flash before my eyes.

The hotel is stuck in the 80's, what kind of hotel does not have wifi through out. The rooms are dated but very clean and it'll be fine for the week.

I  was a little tearful too, I think this was complete fatigue and all the other things going on with me at the moment. I had a good cry and rebooted myself.

  I decided to have a walk through the village (1000 steps there and back), very quaint and with the stunning backdrop of the national park.

The weather was not what I ordered but after lunch the sun  broke through and I headed down for a swim in the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic.

All restaurants here serve an array of seafood (I am allergic to shellfish) so I opted for a lovely fresh Caprese salad, washed down with a glass of jolly good Croatian dry white wine. I had not been able to hold onto what I had eaten for breakfast, I think my whole adventure caught up with me, so I was looking for something gentle and then thought , have the wine too and see what happens. you only live once and after Saturday night, well, go for it!!

I quickly noticed that the restaurants were quite 'spendy', I'm guessing this is due to being an island and you are a captive audience. Burgers were around the €21 mark, scampi was a shocker at €33! its about £1.99 in Iceland ( the store,not the country). I'm not here to save money though, I'm here to holiday.

By dinner time, I'd managed to hang on to lunch and wine, so headed to refuel. oh my days, roast veal, I had (nearly) died and gone to heaven. It was amazing, as was the Dalmation style liver which I thought was worth a try. I followed this with the most amazing clafoutis, the best I've had since I was in Nantes about  11 years ago. 

I took a walk to the sunbathing deck to watch the sun go down and then headed back to my room. Passenger  59 was on TV with Croation subtitles. You can't beat a bit of Wesley!!!!

The wine /champers of the evening was Piper Heidseck, although according to the hotel 'rules' I may be hung drawn an quartered for bringing it into the hotel, let alone opening it.

Let day 2 begin.